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Install and Wire Up Your Amplifier Like an Audio God. After a bit of planning and research you finally got that killer amplifier and are on your way to transforming your stock audio system into a mobile concert arena! But looking at the pile of wires that come with the job, it becomes clear why some audio professionals charge the price of a few fancy steak dinners. Download Captain Underpants (2017) Movie Tumblr. It’s not that all audio installs are technically difficult, it’s more about the time involved to properly disassemble certain portions of the interior and run wires in a clean and concealed manner.

If you have an afternoon to spare and consider yourself a detail- oriented person, then this is one job you can rock out yourself. This guide assumes you’ve already selected a location for your amp and have it mounted. If you’re still deciding on an amp or don’t know where to put the one you bought, check out Planning Out Your Amplifier Install. Depending on the placement of your battery in relation to your amp, the routing of wires may differ from our example which is based on the popular scenario where the battery is in the engine bay and the amp is mounted in the trunk.

If you’re not comfortable splicing into wires there are a variety of wiring harness adapters for most if not all of these connections that allow you to plug in your wires without having to cut into your factory harness. The items listed here may vary slightly depending on the amplifier and wiring kit you bought as well as your application – whether or not you’re keeping the factory head unit, speakers, etc. Route & Connect the Power Cable. Unroll and straighten out the power and ground cables that came with your kit. With the higher quality kits, these cables often come with a ring terminal attached to one of their ends. If not, you’ll have to strip and crimp one on for each cable so that you can attached the power cable to the battery and the ground to a chassis bolt.

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Remember to disconnect your negative battery cable from the terminal before you start any electrical work on your car. It’ll allow you to run power through the vehicle without the risk of a short circuit. Getting Through the Firewall.

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Scan the firewall from both the outside and inside for a grommet that’s convenient to your battery. You may have to peel back the carpet in the interior for a better view.

Look for an empty rubber grommet that’s covering an unused factory hole. That way you can just poke a hole through the grommet and run your power cable through. If you can’t find one, then you’ll have to drill your own.

Always start with a pilot hole to confirm you’re not going to spear anything on the other side. Once your hole is just big enough to pass the cable, protect the edges of the hole with some paint or rust inhibitor like POR- 1. Don’t skip this step or you’ll have rust starting a party on your firewall! Once the paint is dry, install a rubber grommet or firewall bushing into the hole to protect your cable from chaffing against the sharp metal edges. Run the power cable through the grommet from the inside of the car with the ring terminal going towards the battery. It’s much easier to run a few feet of wire up to the battery from the inside rather than the entire length from the battery side.

But if your power cable already comes with a fuse holder attached to it then you’ll have to go in through the engine bay otherwise you won’t be able to get the fuse holder through the hole in the firewall. As you route the cable inside the engine bay be sure the cable is far enough away from moving engine parts and anything that could pinch it. Check to see if there’s a gap where the cable goes through the grommet. You don’t want water to run down the cable and into your car.

Caulk any gaps around the inner edge of the grommet if necessary. Leave the power cable disconnected from the battery for now. Installing a Fuse Holder. In most cases you’re going to have to cut your power cable near the battery to install a fuse holder inline with the cable. Most wiring kits come with the correct fuse and fuse holder but if you have to buy one separately, the fuse size depends on the maximum current draw of your system. You can usually find this information in the instruction manual, on the manufacturer’s website or by calling the product’s tech support line.

Look for a place to anchor your fuse holder within 1. This fuse plays an extremely important role in protecting your car from a fire if the power wire shorts out. The length of wire between the battery terminal and the fuse will be unprotected and that’s why you want this length to be as short as possible.

Once you decide on a good place to put the fuse holder, cut your power cable accordingly and sandwich the fuse holder between the ends. Use self- tapping screws to secure the fuse holder in place. Mad Max: Fury Road (2015) Full Movie. Don’t put the actual fuse inside until the entire installation is complete! You may now connect the power cable to the positive battery terminal (not to the battery post itself) by removing the terminal’s nut, slipping the power cable’s ring over the stud and replacing the nut. Routing Through the Interior. The main objective is to conceal your wiring not only for safety but to give your install a clean and professional look. Always use the most direct route for your power cable and wiring.

Depending on the location of the amp, you may need to remove the kick panel, pillar trim panel, door scuff plate, rear seats and pull up just enough carpet to facilitate the routing process. Snake the power cable underneath the carpet or behind trim all the way to the amp while avoiding any pinch points like seat tracks or door jambs.

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At some point once you reach the amp, the power cable is going to have to come out from behind the trim or underneath the carpet to connect to the amp. A good technique is to cut a little slit in the carpet to allow the power cable to pop out right at the connection point. Connect the Ground Cable. Your ground cable should be short and the same diameter (gauge) as your power cable.

Look for a grounding bolt nearby. This can be any bolt going through the metal of your car. Scrape away any paint on the bolt and clean the grounding surface thoroughly to get better contact between the negative cable’s terminal ring and vehicle ground. Improper grounding is the primary cause of audio noise problems. Slip the terminal ring over the bolt and tighten it back down so the ring is in good contact with the vehicle’s metal chassis. If you can’t find a convenient ground screw or bolt, drill a hole for one. Be sure you know what you may be drilling into on the other side!

This is especially important when you’re near the gas tank, gas line or brake line. An oops moment here could have you going through the tank, causing a spark and accidentally starring in the next Die Hard sequel – the “Ball of Fire” edition.

Whatever method you choose, always finish by covering the connection with paint or other rust- blocker to prevent corrosion. Cut a slit in the carpet like you did for the power cable so the negative (ground) cable can connect to the amp. Run the Remote Turn- on Lead. The remote wire is responsible for turning your amplifier on and off in conjunction with your receiver or head unit. Whenever the receiver is powered up, it outputs voltage that travels down this wire to “tell” your amp to turn on too – your system won’t work without it. Connecting to an Aftermarket Head Unit. Pull your head unit out of the dash so you can access the wiring in the back.

Route your remote wire (usually blue) from the amp along the same path as your power cable and then branch off to go under the dash and to the back of your head unit. Aftermarket head units will generally have a remote turn on lead coming out of the back that you can splice into. Strip the insulation off a small section of this wire coming from the head unit, wrap the turn on lead you just ran from the amp around it and solder.

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